toile development

Using some calico I had left from previous projects I decided to toile the skirt and top of the final garment to ensure my patters were correct to achieve the look I was going for. This is the second toile I've done for the skirt and again I decided to make some changes with the measurements.

For the final garment I'll be removing 22cm from the centre front and 16cm from the side seam on the bottom of the skirt. I am happy with the length of the yolk o the skirt as it is so I haven't made any changes to the pattern for the yolk. Because I'll be shortening the skirt so much so that it can more closely resemble my illustrations and flat drawings, I'll also be manufacturing a pair of shorts that will be inserted underneath the skirt for more functionality. The ruffles and gathers that will be added to the hem will also give the skirt a little more length and allow coverage for the shorts underneath.

For the top, I made adjustments to the pattern before toiling by lowering the neckline by 15cm from the base pattern and adjusted and dropped the placement of the shoulder. I removed all darts that were on the base pattern.

Before toiling I adjusted my patterns for the back of the bodice by lowering the neckline by 2.5cm and the bottom hem by 2cm.

I was very happy with the toile for the top although I will have to make adjustments to the length of the front bodice and have also chosen to shorten the length from the centre back to the side seams to create more room for the bow and tie closure on the back of the bodice.