working with jersey

All knit fabrics should be sewn with a special needle, either a ballpoint or stretch needle. A ballpoint needle has a round tip and pushes fibres apart when sewing rather than piercing the fabric like the average machine needle. The ballpoint needle will prevent any tearing of the fabric.

The best stitch for sewing stretching fabrics is either a stretch stitch or a very narrow and short zig-zag stitch. An overcast stitch can also be used which sews and finishes seams all at once. A normal straight stitch on stretching fabrics is not recommended as it doesn't have any 'give' in it and when the fabric is stretched, the thread might break.

Gently guide fabric when stitching through layers without pulling as it can result in puckering and bulky seams. Reducing the foot pressure slightly can also help reduce puckering when stitching over layers. Stabilising seams with framilon or iron-on seam tape which prevents seams from stretching out of place. Ordinary strips of thin cotton fabric or iron-on interfacing cut to size will also work.

The fabrics I'll be using as well as the Superdry knit dress doesn't fray easily so finishing off my seams won't be necessary, depending on the look I decide to go for after some more experimenting. However, for parts of the garment or look that I want to have a more completed look, a three step zig-zag or overcast stitch can be used to finish the seams as both are flexible and will stretch with the fabric. The best way to hem jersey is by turning the hem to the wrong side and topstitching them in place from the right side. A straight stitch sewn with a twin needle or a three step zig-zag stitch will work for hemlines, both will finish off a garment nicely and both have 'give' in them so the thread won't snap easily when the fabric is stretched.